What about your Cam Chain Tensioner?

I don't have an APE tensioner reasonably handy but I'm sure that the thread on the tensioning rod is either 6mm or 8mm. That being said-
6mm course thread has a thread pitch of 1mm (.040") and fine thread pitch is .75mm (.030") so the difference in advancement of 1 whole thread is .010"

8mm course thread pitch is 1.25mm (.050") and fine thread pitch is 1mm (.040") so again the difference in advancement of 1 whole thread is .010"

Not enough difference to get excited about. i.e. not worth the trouble.

I've ordered a ZX11 cam chain tensioner from EBay so I can evaluate this alternative. I like the simplicity of an automatic tensioner and the positive locking mechanism is a better design than the stock KZ tensioner. It will be interesting to see what wear is on this tensioner as found.

I pulled the stock tensioner off of my Voyager. It's just a locking ball ring with an oil pressure backup. As I took it off the engine I noted that there was no oil in the tensioner, nor was there any oil in the supply tube which incorporates a check valve. At the very least the empty supply tube would mean that there may be a delay in the support that the oil could apply during cold starts.
I also have a ZX11 tensioner which I installed in place of the stock unit because I'm in the process of adjusting the valves. While doing so I was able to compare the relative strengths of the springs. The ZX11 tensioner spring is WAY more powerful than the stock tensioner spring. It's in there now just to control the slack in the cam chain while I'm working on the valves. I would not subject the system to the pressure that the ZX11 tensioner will apply if I left it in there long term.
Bill

This is the Roller from my recent '79 project.  It came with a ZX10 tensioner.  20,000 Kilometers on the odometer and last insured in 1994 !! 
There is little doubt that the "pattern" on the roller is from sitting for so long with this tensioner's excessive spring pressure.  The asymmetric pattern is a mystery and I won't speculate. 
 
I modified the ZX10 tensioner by installing a "lighter" spring and by removing the ratcheting awl.  In place of the awl I put a piece of brass tube in its place to prevent the rod from coming out.  I prefer to have the rod "floating" and not being "locked" into place.  With the rod floating I can back-off the adjuster (and the rod) for adjustment purposes. and to allow for the "full feel" experience. 
 
 

Hi Scotch,
Am I correct? As modified, you turn the end bolt in until you can feel the tensioner through the spring and then lock it down with that nyloc nut. By 'through the spring' I mean that even though it's locked down it still floats with the spring pressure.
Thanks
Bill

That's correct Bill. "By Feel" is subjective for sure.  I adjust until there is a "firmness" felt and then back-off a bit.  "A Bit" is also subjective.  I also make this adjustment by "the sound". Essentially: Not too tight and not too loose. It's pretty obvious once you've dialed it in and out a few times.